If you're new to cycling, it can be overwhelming to know where to start and what equipment you need. In this blog post, we'll go over the best way to start out in cycling and the essential equipment you need to get started.
]]>If you're new to cycling, it can be overwhelming to know where to start and what equipment you need. In this blog post, we'll go over the best way to start out in cycling and the essential equipment you need to get started.
It's essential to start slowly when you're new to cycling. You don't want to overexert yourself and risk injury. Start with short rides of 20-30 minutes and gradually increase the length of your rides as you become more comfortable on your bike.
As you build up your endurance, you can start to increase the intensity of your rides. One of the best ways to do this is by incorporating intervals into your rides. Intervals involve alternating between short periods of high-intensity effort and longer periods of lower-intensity recovery. This type of training can help you improve your fitness quickly and make your rides more enjoyable.
The most important piece of equipment you need for cycling is a bike. There are many different types of bikes available, including road bikes, mountain bikes, and hybrid bikes. Road bikes are designed for speed and efficiency on paved roads, while mountain bikes are designed for off-road riding. Hybrid bikes are a cross between road bikes and mountain bikes and are great for casual riding or commuting.
When choosing a bike, it's essential to consider your budget and your riding goals. A basic entry-level bike can cost anywhere from $300 to $500, while more advanced models can cost several thousand dollars. Consider how often you plan to ride and what type of terrain you'll be riding on before making a decision.
In addition to a bike, there are a few other essential pieces of equipment you'll need, including a helmet, cycling shorts, and cycling shoes. A helmet is the most important safety item you can wear when cycling. Look for a helmet that fits well and is comfortable to wear for extended periods.
Cycling shorts are designed to provide cushioning and support to your body while riding. They're made from moisture-wicking materials that help keep you dry and comfortable while you ride. Cycling shoes are designed to clip into your pedals, which can help improve your pedaling efficiency and power.
Other optional equipment you may want to consider includes cycling gloves, sunglasses, and a cycling computer. Cycling gloves can help protect your hands and improve your grip on the handlebars, while sunglasses can help protect your eyes from the sun and wind. A cycling computer can help you track your speed, distance, and other metrics while you ride.
Starting out in cycling can be a fun and rewarding experience. By starting slowly, building up gradually, and choosing the right equipment, you can enjoy all the benefits that cycling has to offer. Remember to always wear a helmet and follow traffic laws when riding on public roads. With a little bit of practice and the right equipment, you'll be on your way to becoming a confident and skilled cyclist in no time.
See you on the roads
]]>In this article, we'll go over some of the essential factors to consider when choosing a bike for a beginner.
The first factor to consider when choosing a bike is the type of riding you'll be doing. Different types of bikes are designed for different purposes. For example, road bikes are designed for speed and efficiency on paved roads, while mountain bikes are designed for off-road riding. Hybrid bikes are a cross between road bikes and mountain bikes and are great for casual riding or commuting.
Before making a decision, consider what type of riding you plan to do most often. If you'll primarily be riding on paved roads, a road bike may be the best choice. If you plan to do some off-road riding, a mountain bike may be a better option.
The fit and comfort of a bike are also crucial factors to consider. A bike that fits properly and is comfortable to ride can help prevent injuries and make your rides more enjoyable. When choosing a bike, consider the following factors:
Frame size: The size of the bike frame is an essential factor to consider. A bike that's too big or too small can be uncomfortable to ride and may cause injuries. The best way to determine the right frame size is to visit a bike shop and have a professional fit you for a bike.
Handlebars: The type of handlebars on a bike can affect your comfort while riding. Drop handlebars are typically found on road bikes and provide a more aerodynamic riding position. Flat handlebars are typically found on mountain bikes and provide a more upright riding position.
Saddle: The saddle, or seat, on a bike can also affect your comfort while riding. Look for a saddle that's the right size for your body and provides adequate cushioning and support.
There are plenty of options to choose from.
Budget is another important factor to consider when choosing a bike. Bikes can range in price from a few hundred dollars to several thousand dollars. While it's tempting to go for the most expensive option, it's not always necessary, especially for a beginner.
Consider how often you plan to ride and your riding goals before deciding on a budget. If you plan to ride occasionally or for casual purposes, a basic entry-level bike may be sufficient. If you plan to ride more often or for more intense purposes, you may want to invest in a higher-end model.
Choosing the right bike for a beginner in cycling can be challenging, but by considering the type of riding you'll be doing, the fit and comfort of the bike, and your budget, you can make an informed decision. Remember to visit a bike shop and have a professional fit you for a bike to ensure the best fit and comfort. With the right bike, you'll be on your way to enjoying all the benefits that cycling has to offer.
See you on the road
]]>If you’re looking for something worthwhile to explore — the Wim Hof Method might be just what you need.
Who Is Wim Hof?
Wim Hof, born 20th April 1959, also known as The Iceman, is a Dutch extreme athlete noted for his ability to withstand freezing temperatures. The Iceman holds a staggering twenty-six (yes, twenty-six!) world records – the longest ice bath (one hour and forty-four minutes) / running a full marathon in the Namibian desert without water, and completing a one finger hang at an altitude of 2,000 meters to share just a few.
Wim Hof seems to possess a superhuman ability to withstand the extremes of Mother Nature, yet suffers no ill effects. Hence, his nickname: The Iceman. He explains that there is a method to his madness — that the physical feats he’s accomplished can be attributed to his ability to control his inner nature. And that’s what the Wim Hof Method is all about.
So, how is this actually possible?
How Does The Wim Hof Method Work?
The Wim Hof Method (WHM) is based on three powerful pillars.
Cold Therapy
Cold therapy is something that is the foundation of the WFM. Cold therapy involves exposing yourself to cold in a proper, controlled way. Cold therapy has a host of powerful benefits for the body, including:
And no, you don’t need to go to cryotherapy chambers to partake in cold therapy, you can do it right at home (and no ice baths in sight – unless you really want one).
Breathing technique
We breath all the time right, but do you breath correctly and in a way that unlocks the tremendous potential. Wim’s breathing techniques create heightened oxygen levels, which holds massive benefits for everyday cyclist.
This practice helps cleanse the body of excess carbon dioxide that is not expelled from normal breathing. By taking deep, rejuvenating breaths, we flush our bodies and cells with much needed oxygen.
This pillar has been proven to unlock immediate improvements in performance. As just one example, check out Vishen Lakhiani and the push up achievement he didn’t think was possible.
Commitment
The final pillar of the WHM is the foundation of them all, even though there is no specific practice for this pillar. Success with the WHM requires patience and dedication, which is what this pillar provides in order for you to master your mind and body.
The only way to truly understand how the WFM could improve your overall health, vitality and performance is to check it out yourself. We recommend to start with either the
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These are some actual sessions so are written as road rides, but easily transfer to your pain den (we have done many indoors).
This is short a short, but a tough session.
Warm up - 5 minutes.
Perform one 60 second effort at maximum pace (This should be very difficult – Heart rate close to maximum by the end of the 60 seconds).
Recover 4 minutes.
Repeat 6 times (with 4 minutes recovery between each repeat).
Cool down for 10 minutes.
If you love climbing like me, you will love this one.
Complete a good warm up. Ideally up to 30 min easy spin (if our on the road us this time to head to the hill you plan to climb – Look for something over 0.5 km in length and the steeper the better).
Find a mid-range gear, that is challenging but comfortable for you to climb in (you should be working at between 70 and 80 cadence – Higher and the gear is too easy / lower and the gear too hard).
Complete your first climb in this gear. Once on the top, roll back down.
Repeat 5 times. Jumping a gear each climb.
Cool down with easy spin back home (or 10 mins indoors).
This is a fun little one, that rarely leaves much in the tank at the end.
Complete a 10 to 15 minute warm up
At a km marker or when you round the km on your bike computer, stand and attack 20 strokes per leg, then settle in and attack max heart rate for the remainder of 1 km.
Recovery spin for 1 km.
Then repeat 8 times across 8 km.
Cool down well with easy spin for up to 15 min.
If you love the burning feeling down below, this one is for you.
Complete a good warm up of 10 to 15 minutes.
Start first interval by pedaling for 20 seconds at max effort (aiming for over 100 cadence). Follow by 10 seconds of recovery (easy spin).
Repeat for 8 intervals (or 4 minutes) then pedal for 1 minute easy. That’s on round.
To really burn do 4 rounds (for those newer to this try 2 rounds).
Cool down easy spin.
My legs hurt just writing this one. The only enjoyment at the end is saying you survived it.
Complete a good 20 minute warm up.
For the following 20 min, complete 15 seconds full stick in the largest gear to can turn, then drop gears for 45 seconds easy. That’s 20 repeats over 20 minutes. Yep it hurts.
Complete a min 10 easy spin cool down.
Have some fun and give them a go. With all events cancelled or put on hold, this is a great time to try something different with your training without impacting your long term goals.
Stay safe and lets us know what you think.
]]>You should use your indoor trainer like a runner uses a treadmill, not as your only method of training but as a supplement to your training strategy. Despite the simplicity and convenience of indoor cycling, there are several common issues that can reduce the effectiveness and enjoyment of your session.
When you train indoors, focus on workouts that are the most effective (and fun) in that environment. On the trainer, you can ride consistently without disruption. You can do focused sessions to work on your Functional Threshold Power (FTP). Indoors, you can also participate in virtual simulations and group rides that can boost your fun and intensity.
No matter what, you want to make sure your indoor rides are stimulating. One of my favourite things to do indoors is combine bike riding with strength or other modes of exercise. This might be a 5-minute core circuit interspersed with 10 minutes of riding or it could be a 30-minute run combined with a 30-minute ride.
Conversely, there are some things that just don’t work as well indoors. Standing sprints are hard to do well since the bike is fixed in position. Similarly, while steady endurance rides and muscular endurance intervals can be done well, that does not mean most cyclists need to ride more than 1–2 hours at a time on an indoor trainer to reach their goals. Save that for outdoors rides, cross-training or for better weather days when you get out on the road.
As with any training pursuit, you should have a goal. It might just be to have fun or to work on a certain aspect of your fitness. You might decide to work on your FTP during a certain session, so your goal for the day would be to complete a warmup with a few sprints and spin-ups to improve your coordination and then 3 x 10-minute threshold intervals that will help you break up your workout into many little chunks where you focus on different cadences and outputs. This focus is easier to do inside and helps you take advantage of where you are and, importantly, these same little chunks help you avoid boredom or the dreaded junk miles.
Since there is much less visual stimulation indoors, you’ll want to plan for how to stay motivated and entertained as you pedal away. Having a couple of playlists, podcasts, movies or television shows that you can turn to when on the trainer will help pass the time. Smart trainers are always a good option if you can afford one. You can simulate courses, participate in a virtual group ride and much more to enhance your indoor experience. If your not wanted to spend any cash on a smart trainer, then another option is to tune into a race you want to complete or a race / event that is in your field of interest.
Accelerating quickly and the ability to pedal at a variety of cadences is very important to cycling performance and can also be a great way to break up your ride to help with motivation and focus. Feel free to mix up different types of indoor cycling workouts. You can do spin-ups where you accelerate the gear you are in over 20–30 seconds, as if you are on a fixed-gear bicycle and you are coming over the top of a climb and into a downhill. You can set your cadence to a specific range, say 70–80 RPM, while you are doing a tempo or moderate workload to work on muscular endurance and prepare specifically for steeper climbs where you run out of gears and can only pedal in your easiest gear. For longer rides or intervals, simply dividing the workout into 5–10 minute chunks where you shift your gears to switch the cadence and even your wattage/output inserts some variety into your ride. Similarly, you can include sprints
It’s common for athletes to get overwhelmed by riding indoors in hot areas; as discomfort rises, performance drops. Getting too warm increases the load on your body (e.g., decrease wattage) and increases your rate of perceived exertion (RPE). Try using a fan to keep the room at a suitable temp or consider moving your trainer into the garage / colder portion of your house of potentially outside. You may also want to use this as an opportunity to practice your warm-weather cooling strategies. Try things like chilled drinks, ice packs or stockings (down your jersey or around your neck).
The trainer is an important tool in any cyclists arsenal. Make sure you use it to full effect when you have to stay indoors as a boost to your training. Tailor your sessions specifically for indoors, don’t just copy your outdoor plan. When used right, your trainer will be a welcome riding partner on a wet, windy day.
Find your local bike shop and grab yourself a trainer here
]]>From the basics to a bit more of the detail, we share the important things you need to know when shifting gears on a roadie.
]]>From the basics to a bit more of the detail, we share the important things you need to know when shifting gears on a roadie.
Shifting can sound a little complicated to the new cyclists who may not be familiar with the terminology, so let’s take you through the lingo before we move on:
Chain rings: These are the gears at the front of your bicycle where the pedals attach to the bottom bracket. Most road bikes will have a large and small chain ring, while some newer bikes might only have the one.
Cassette: The collection of gears located on the rear wheel (individually referred to as cogs). The number of cogs on a cassette can vary on road bikes.
Teeth: The number of notches on the front chain rings and the cogs on your cassette. This is normally refer as a range e.g. a cassette range of 11t–28t would mean your smallest cog has 11 teeth, while your largest cog has 28 teeth.
Derailleur: Most bikes (unless you’re on a fixie is single from chain ring) will have a front and a rear derailleur. The derailleur is what moves the chain up or down the chain ring or cassette.
High gear: The higher the gear the more effort you need to pedal. High gear (highest) is when the chain is on the largest chain ring and the smallest cog on your cassette. High gears are used for descending or short high speed sprints.
Low gear: The lower the gear the easier it is to pedal. Low gear (lowest) is when the chain is on the smallest chain ring and the largest cog on your cassette. Low gears are used to climbs and spinning easy for recovery for recovery..
Shifting gears is as simple as using the levers on your handlebars right? Well that is true, but which one does what.
The left lever: The left lever is for your chain ring. That’s the big one up the front where your pedal connects. This lever moves your chain between the large and small chain ring.
The right lever: The right is the shifting lever that moves the chain up and down the rear cassette.
The actual way you shift gears will change between brands. In some cases the brake lever will move, in others this is fixed. The common theme will be the purpose of the left and right levers. Take a few minutes before you hit the roads getting to know how your levers works.
Now you know where to find your shifters and how to use them, let’s talk through some of the principles to get you shifting smoother and pedalling more efficiently.
Shift Frequently
It’s pretty common for new cyclists to use the same gearing for long durations instead of frequently shifting between gears. Deliberately change gears regularly so you get comfortable with different gear ratios and are able to find which gear is the most efficient for the terrain you’re on. This helps you conserve energy and saves your legs from fatigue. For the smaller changes, stick to shifts with the right shifting lever. When a bigger change to your speed is necessary, shift between your chain rings on the front with the left shifting lever.
Cadence is king
A good way to monitor whether you in the correct gear is by using cadence. Most people will have an opinion on the right cadence, but for you beginners, were suggesting you find a cadence you’re most comfortable riding at, then shift so you maintain this cadence. E.g., if your planning a long easy ride and feel most comfortable riding at a cadence of 90 revolutions per minute (rpm), shift whenever your rpms begins to rise or dip below 90 while maintaining the same effort.
Keep you chain happy (No one likes a cross chain)
There are a couple of gear combinations that can cause your chain to stretch at an angle that could cause slipping or rubbing on the derailleur or frame. This is known as cross chaining and is most likely to occur when you use the big chain ring on the front and the largest cog on the cassette or when you use the small chain ring on the front and the smallest cog on the cassette. Avoid these combinations when possible to prevent unnecessary wear on your chain.
Get there before you get there
Shifting late can have the effect of slowing you down by slowing your momentum. Sift to the combination you need before you need it. e.g. Instead of waiting until you’re on the climb before shifting from the big chain ring to the small, switch just before the bottom of the climb. This makes for an easier shift without grinding your gears and allows you to start the climb without losing too much speed.
Delicate does it
Dropping a chain (Chain jumps of in most cases the cassette, but can be the chain ring) normally occurs when you apply too much torque through the pedal during the shift. Before you shift, speed up your pedal stroke slightly, so you can then lighten it up during the shift without losing speed. The decrease in tension on the chain, puts less pressure on the derailleur and makes for an easier shift.
So get out the road and practise. You will be an expert in now time and a more efficient cyclist.
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With your hands on the lower part of the handlebar, your centre of gravity is closer to the ground. Also, your weight will be more evenly distributed between the front and rear wheels, which helps maintain traction, especially during braking and turning.
Look ahead
Look for danger signs so you have time to react. In turns, keep your eyes on the exit, which will help you carve a smooth, steady line all the way through.
Start at the top of your body and let go of tension. Keep breathing, open your mouth to unclench your jaw, drop your shoulders, bend your elbows, release your death grip on the bar, uncurl your toes and let your feet lie flat on the bottoms of your shoes.
Always anticipate what you'll need to do next. This will help you avoid sudden braking. For controlled slowing, gently squeeze both levers equally with two- to three-second pulses. Avoid constantly riding the brakes as this can cause heat build up. Not what you want when screaming down a hill.
The biggest mistake people make descending: They wait until they're in the middle of a turn to brake. Instead, reduce speed before the turn. If you have to brake in the turn, you didn't slow enough to begin with. Then, push your outside pedal down (right turn, left foot down) with pressure on that foot. To initiate the turn, lean the bike--not your body--into the turn (right turn, lean bike right). The faster and sharper the turn, the more you'll lean the bike. This action is similar to downhill skiing: The lower body angulates into the turn while the upper body remains upright. To exit the turn, gently straighten the bike.
One of the greatest rides in Victoria is the Around the Bay. Since 1993 this bike ride has supported The Smith Family in raising funds (over $300,000 to date) to help children in need, break the cycle of disadvantage through education.
Your ride options are almost unlimited. You could bring the baby seat and tackle the 20 km family ride, starting at Albert Park and heading alone the iconic and beautiful beach road. Plenty of cafes to stop for a sneaky latte or stretch your legs at one of many parks or beaches. A great day out on the bike.
If you’re really up for a challenge you can take on the 300km BIG ONE. This ride is literally around the bay. Also starting at Albert park along with the riders looking for a good time, you serious folk will head towards Queenscliff where you will catch the ferry to Sorrento. Yep that’s right, boat ride included.
Riding through the amazing Mornington peninsula you will head to Arthurs seat where you will be welcomed with a 6% climb and a guaranteed burn. You will be rewarded with views of the bay and have enough time to catch your breath before a well-deserved descent. Then with around 75km to go is where you will start your climb up red hill. With an average gradient of 3.4%, at this stage of the ride it will feel worse than it is. As you start second guessing your decision to take this ride on, you will hit the iconic beach road as you head back to your starting point of Albert Park.
Always looking out for the newbies here at Casualblack, we have a couple of tips to keep in mind if your starting out and attending your first cycling event.
Will see you at the start line
Happy riding
]]>MAF stands for Maximum Aerobic Function. It focusses on the fat burning engine (aerobic system) responsible for fuelling your bodies energy needs, instead of focussing on the anerobic system like many training plans.
Wondering what the difference is?
Aerobic System – Energy created by the body through the combustion of fats, carbohydrates and amino acids in the presence of oxygen. Produced more slowly by the body, but more abundant in volume, it’s used for sustained exercise and other body functions
Anerobic System – Energy created by the body through the breakdown of carbohydrates from blood glucose or glucose stored in muscle during intense exercise in the absence of oxygen. Energy generated through the anerobic system is short lived and is quickly depleted. The by product for energy produced this way is lactic acid build up. We have all been there.
Its worth noting, that your body will often switch between the aerobic and anerobic system during exercise.
Although there are 8 steps to the MAF Method, I wanted to focus on Step 5 “Build the aerobic system”. Maffetone talks to Aerobic deficiency which is common in people who exercise too much, people who are overstressed and in people who are inactive. This can result in Chronic Fatigue, Increased body fat (those people who are carrying excess fat, even though they are smashing out 10+ hours a week of training) and poor endurance.
The MAF method in essence is training in your MAF heart rate zone for all of your base training sessions. The secret (and challenge) is to not go over your MAF zone, but stay at or as close to it as you can.
Your MAF zone is calculated using 2 steps
What have I learnt from my experience (over my 4 or so years playing with the MAF method)
Although this is a very short summary of what MAF is, I hope it gives you a little nudge to look a little more into it and see if it works for you. Check out www.philmaffetone.com for the details.
Happy riding and we would love to hear your MAF tales
]]>Defined as “A Naturally raised area of land, not as high or rugged as a mountain” but feeling more like “An altitude defying, heart racing, leg torture device”
The good news is there are some simple things you can do to improve your hill climbs.
Keep your eye on the road ahead. Spot the hill with plenty of time. Keep your airways open and ready to suck in oxygen to keep your legs turning.
Drop down a couple of gears. You want to increase your cadence, but ensure your still putting power down. A couple of gears now, means you will have less to drop as you start the climb.
Carry your momentum into the start of your climb and make your final gear choice.
You will want to drop to your final gear quickly. Do you drop to the small chainring on the front to drop more gears at once, or make smaller adjustments on the rear. Your decision here will be based on the type of hill your about to climb. Long or steep may require a larger drop in gears (front chainring) than a short or shallow climb (rear adjustment).
For beginners, sit is the way to go (unless you’re after an extra workout as part of your climb). Its easier to drop to the right gear and stay seated than to carry a higher gear and stand.
You also want to avoid standing in a low gear which can create too high a cadence, affecting your balance and control and not improving your climbing efficiency.
So take a seat and steadily turn your legs over.
The simple answer, No. Experience, in time will give you a feel for the right gear. It is very much specific to your strength / experience and the climb your making / bike your on etc.
Don’t compare or make a competition out of it. Keep hill climbs in the early days a personal challenge and not a competition with your mates. Keep it fun.
Climbing is as much a mental challenge as it is a physical challenge. Your self-talk can change the outcome of a hill climb, whether you smash it out or jump off and walk your bike up the last 50m. Mentally place yourself on the hill, gradually climbing to the top, experiencing the ease at which your pedal / the feeling of being in the perfect gear / the thought as you ride over the peak.
Win in your head and your legs will follow
Grab the hill by the chainring and give these tips a go. Practise makes perfect when it comes to hill climbs, so keep at it.
Enjoy the climb and the challenge
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